Make-up Products

Backstage Beauty Pass : Pamella Roland

New York Fashion Week  Fall / Winter 2013-14

February 11, 2013

On Monday, I stopped by the tents to see my friend Matin - lead makeup artist for Laura Mercier and CAUS beauty committee member - who keyed the Pamella Roland show. The palette he created was inspired by Roland's collection; an homage to the opulence of St. Petersburg and the Winter Palace. Cue luxe gilding.

The models at the Roland show had perfectly defined dark red pouts set against flawless matte skin (Mercier's signature). Eyes were washed with soft gold.

To get the look, artists applied Mercier's Oil Free Suprême Foundation or Silk Crème Foundation to skin, and set with translucent powder. Lips were outlined in Coffee Bean and filled in with Deep Wine. Lids were swept with Gold shadow and finished with a slick of mascara.

Hair was swept into a sleek french roll and secured with a wide, shiny black headband.

Though we're only on the fifth day of New York Fashion Week, it is apparent that the popularity of oxblood will continue into next season as it has been featured at many shows this week.


Blue's the Hue for Spring Beauty


Direct from the catwalks for Spring/Summer 2013, tints and tones of the coolest hues are making a splash in fashion and beauty.

In August of 2011, I reported on the variety of blue tones starting to make waves in beauty. At that time, the newly launched Beauty Forecast from The Color Association of the United States (which I produced) highlighted green-based blues for Spring/Summer 2013.

Fast forward to present day -  WWD just released its beauty trend roundup  for the upcoming season with an article titled "Fade to Blue". The headline reads "From a hint of teal to all-over aqua, hues of blue ruled runway makeup from start to finish this season."

The blue family continues to gain momentum. As our relationship to the environment evolves - from a connection to the general idea of "green", to a more focused appreciation for water including conservation and preservation - tonal blues, teals and turquoises enter the forefront.

Like a proud mother, it's exciting to see the validation of my labor. CAUS's record for accurately forecasting trends (since 1915) continues to be right on target and I can't help but be thrilled to be apart of it!


Images: Courtesy of WWD and The Color Association of the United States

Makeup Show NYC

This afternoon I checked out the Makeup Show. I went expecting it to be more of a trade and trends kind of deal but, in fact, it was a free-for-all for every makeup artist in the Tri-State area. All for good reason though as many top cosmetic brands were on hand, offering pretty decent discounts. Among them: Young Blood, MAC Pro, and Nars.

While making the rounds, I came across a new (to me) beauty brand, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics. The brand boasts a vegan/cruelty free line up of products. What really caught my eye was the colorful range of Lip Tars - a gloss meets lipstick combo. Packaged in a juicy-tubes like container, the Lip Tar squirts out like any old gloss and melts on to your lips easily. The consistency stays moist for at least an hour, but sets to a long wearing stain after just a few minutes. The key when applying is to work fairly quickly to avoid any unwanted staining. After application, you're pretty much set for the day or night (or both!). When I say long-wearing, I mean it! I missed wiping a little off at the show and it's still holding strong after a number of hours and countless washes.

In terms of color, I personally think the bright colors such as Reverb (orange-based red) and Anime (florescent magenta) look the best. There is a wide variety of nude and pastel tones but on Caucasian skin, they end up washing you out (or as one girl beside me at the table said " give you that dead look"!). I'm really excited about these new additions to my cosmetics bag. Long wearing and glossy color (with a hint of peppermint) = the perfect evening accoutrement!

CAUS Launches The Beauty Committee

Adding its first new color committee in over 40 years, the Color Association of the United States (my place of employment!) is launching the Beauty Forecast for Spring Summer 2013.

Spearheaded by yours truly, the forecast offering goes beyond the basic color palette, incorporating custom designed fragrances, nail and lip colors to coincide with the stories for the four color trends. More to come on this later...

In the meantime, if you happen to be in the New York City area on May 17th, drop by to check it out! Hpnotiq will also be on location launching their brand new flavored drink, Harmonie - a lavender flavored alcohol that comes in a key color from the beauty palette, purple! Harmonie is still under lock and key (the official launch is set for June 1st) so come to our event to be on the inside track!

Youngblood = Radiant Skin

Our first guest blog from Charm School pal Catherine -- a registered nurse and esthetician. In other words, she knows her stuff!She's turned me on to many great products over the years. Below, she reviews her fave makeup brand, Youngblood...

Mineral make up is quickly becoming the preferred natural alternative to traditional cosmetics. A staple product in my make up bag is the loose natural mineral foundation by Youngblood. The finely milled powder provides a natural, weightless finish on the skin without any glitter or shimmer. The line has a great selection of realistic skin tones for easy color matching. The pink, yellow and neutral hue options are customizable to match any skin undertone.

All powder formulations contain titanium dioxide for long-lasting UVA/UVB protection (SPF 15+). All Youngblood products are talc, paraben, artificial fragrance, dye and cruelty free. The special oil free formula makes it non–comedogenic (won’t clog pores) and an excellent option for oily, acneic, congested, and sensitive skin types. The natural vegan formula is ideal for coverage after an IPL, acid or enzyme treatment because it won’t irritate the skin or affect the results of your professional treatment. The combination of natural and mineral ingredients gives it amazing long wearing, waterproof, and adhering abilities. An added bonus is the clean, modern packaging and good price point.

In order to get the most lightweight, silky coverage simply tap a small amount into the lid and select the appropriate brush size. Dip the tip of the brush into the powder, tap off the excess, and gently buff the powder into the skin using circular movements. Blend evenly over the face and jaw line to ensure gradual coverage to the neck. A small kabuki or powder brush will provide moderate to full coverage. A large kabuki or ultimate foundation brush that is more dense will give you full coverage. The powder foundation is very versatile and can easily be used to spot treat and conceal with a concealer brush, clean sponge or fingertip. Be sure to cleanse your make up brushes every 2 weeks with a mild shampoo or professional brush cleaner to prevent powder, skin and bacteria buildup.

Once you have an even, flawless palette to work with, you can add a splash of color with blush or a light sun-kissed shimmer with bronzer.

TIPS: * Apply a lightweight moisturizer to clean, dry skin prior to application * For the most even coverage make sure all serums, moisturizers and sun protection lotions have absorbed into the skin; blot with a tissue if needed * Mix a small amount of mineral foundation into your moisturizer to create a custom tinted lotion * For Rosacea, acne lesions, pigmentation and vascular issues the powder can be layered for added coverage

I can honestly say that this is a great product having seen the results first hand on Catherine's skin. She continually gets compliments about how fresh and radiant her complexion looks.

Thanks for sharing Cath!!!

The World of Wonderwoman (at MAC)

[caption id="attachment_369" align="aligncenter" width="460" caption="The store front window at MAC in Soho"][/caption]For the comic book fans and limited edition junkies alike MAC introduces the Wonder Woman Colour Collection.

Now I can't speak for all MAC locations around the globe, but the New York City Soho store completely transformed into a world of Marvel. With rows of WW comics spanning the decades and action hero transformation chairs for make-overs, the store was a knockout!

[caption id="attachment_370" align="aligncenter" width="460" caption="WW comics from 1942 - 2000 on display"][/caption]

The packaging keeps to a very primary palette, while the product line features blue with hits of pink and purple to pack a feminine punch. The WW Reflects Glitter adds an element of true super power in dust form.

Let the transformations begin!

Rockin' Rodin

On Friday afternoon, I had the pleasure of sitting down with Linda Rodin at her apartment--a real live jewel box on the edge of Chelsea; each room painted a powdery hue and filled with various vintage gems--countless sea shells, floral trinkets and flea market kitsch. I guess I shouldn't have been surprised by her charming and unique aesthetic. Linda's reputation for great style is renowned. A fashion icon in this city, she started her career modeling in Italy in the 1960's, pioneered the first clothing boutique in SoHo, trail blazed as an editor at Bazaar and most recently, has been beautifying the beautiful as one of the city's most respected fashion stylists (annual Victoria Secret ad campaigns as just one example among many). [caption id="attachment_126" align="alignnone" width="460" caption="Linda\'s exquisite living room"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_126" align="alignnone" width="460" caption="Vintage finds"]a pretty little side table[/caption]

Fashion and design aside, the real reason I went to visit Linda was to talk to her about her hugely successful skin care line, Rodin. What an impressive story it was. Her first product--the now famous Olio Lusso--was developed in her apartment after a trip to Paris to visit her best friend, model Laetitia Casta. The two had been playing around with essential oils in France and, when Linda returned, decided to start experimenting with more oil combinations. Working on set as a stylist, (alongside the industry's top makeup artists), she tried all of the latest skin care must-haves, though was never completely satisfied with what was out there. As she started to combine the various oils--chosen for their beneficial properties--a great concoction was created.

The end result, Olio Lusso for face, contains just 11 ingredients. Happy with her mixture, Linda started handing out this magic potion to friends--mostly those who worked on set with her or in the industry. The friends quickly became addicts of the stuff and started to spread the word. Many had connections to celebrities and magazine types--who helped spread the word even further.

After the face oil came one for body--composed with just 8 ingredients. The body oil joined the face oil as a huge hit and was in such high demand, the operation had to move out of her apartment, to a local manufacturer. As Olio Lusso became more established, Linda decided to create a hair oil. She thought about developing it on her own, like she had for the other two products, but decided that instead, she'd collaborate with long time friend (and esteemed hair dresser) Bob Recine. Enter Rodin by Recine luxury hair oil. From what I gather, this is similar to Moroccan hair oil--producing healthy, lustrous and glossy locks. Naturally, of course.

[caption id="attachment_124" align="alignnone" width="460" caption="Linda (and Winky) hard at work..."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_122" align="alignnone" width="460" caption="This is where the magic nyc closet turned office. Genius!"][/caption]

Linda gave me some samples to take home and try. I have to admit, I was a little hesitant to put the oil all over my face--given my history of breakout prone skin. Linda had told me that all skin types benefit from the oil. One fan had recently written to her and shared how it had completely cured her acne, when nothing else could. So, I did my evening cleansing routine and slathered on a few drops. The oil went on smoothly and literally absorbed in minutes--no greasy residue. It felt amazing, but the real magic was the intoxicating scent (from the jasmine oil). I'm also usually wary of scented products for my skin, but this serum felt natural and pure, and so did the fragrance. Instant happiness.

When I asked Linda about the benefits of the oil, she told me the bottom line was to "make your skin the best it can be, naturally", a tag line she has stuck to since the beginning. As she does not have any formal training in dermatology or skin care, she said she isn't promising miraculous results, just to give your skin a nourishing, moisturizing treatment using oils historically (and scientifically) known for their beneficial properties. I've been using the face oil for three days now and am really excited to use it every morning and night. I haven't noticed any signs of breakouts and my skin has been soft and just the slightest bit dewy underneath my makeup--that perfect glow.

With articles in the who's who of publications--from French (Paris) Vogue to InStyle to Bazaar, Olio Lusso seems to be on the fast track to the beauty hall of fame. The next product to hit the market (just released) is the softly tinted pink lip balm--the same delightful scent in a base of beeswax and shea butter.

The entire collection is available at various stores in and around the New York area. West Coasters, Canadians and other International pals will have to order online. Give it a try--you won't be sorry!

Bloomingdales Beauty 101

I just want to preface this post with a note regarding the title. I had no idea that Bloomingdale's was calling it's recent beauty seminar Beauty 101 when I wrote my Perfumey 101 story. It would seem that this is an unofficial beauty school week for me. I will not be adding "101" to the end of every post... Last night I had the pleasure of attending Bloomingdale's Beauty 101 seminar at the Soho store (thanks to Chloe for the special invite). What a delight it was! Greeted with mini cupcakes (with pink icing) and apple scented champagne, we sat front row, enthralled by all the products on offer. Various representatives and managers from brands like Bobbi Brown, Clinique and SpaceNK introduced new products and holiday gift sets, and promoted their existing collections. It was a fun, interactive way to get to know brands we already use, as well as hearing about some new ones. One thing I learned--Benefit started out as strictly a 'brow' focused company. I can't believe I didn't know that! I'm definitely going to consider taking a trip to one of their brow bars if I decide to stray from threading...

Although everyone had a great array of products, the two presentations that really had my attention were MAC (already a fan) and Nars (a recent follower--thanks to Cath and her Laguna bronzer). I have to tell you all right now that MAC has the most amazing holiday beauty collection coming up!!!! Seriously. The A Tartan Tale story is not only on trend, but totally gorgeous. Beautiful velvety plaid packaging on everything from the blush tri-pack (in awesome colors), to the lip glosses and pigments. Even the eye shadows have a plaid pattern etched into the color.

But, the real show stoppers are their brush kits. Wow. Reasonably priced at around $50. Not only do you get a set of 5 brushes, but the bag they come in is to die for. Best of all, it contains a strap hidden inside that you can attach and wear as a purse. Genius. Chaundra, the MAC sales manager at the Soho store, told me they are likely to sell out. So, head to your nearest MAC and pre-order! You want at least one of the pieces from this collection. Trust me!

After the event, we were free to stay late and browse the cosmetic department. I stopped off at the Nars counter and talked (beauty) shop with April and Samantha. I discovered a product that seems too good to be true--as April put it "like a unicorn for you skin". It's called the skin smoother (about $30). Does anyone use this already? I don't know how it's slipped past all of our beauty bags. It literally smooths out pores, fills in fine lines and mattifies your complexion--so your foundation can glide on flawlessly. Miraculous. This product is going to be my next purchase (well, maybe after my pre-order of the MAC collection).