Backstage Beauty Pass : Pamella Roland

New York Fashion Week  Fall / Winter 2013-14

February 11, 2013

On Monday, I stopped by the tents to see my friend Matin - lead makeup artist for Laura Mercier and CAUS beauty committee member - who keyed the Pamella Roland show. The palette he created was inspired by Roland's collection; an homage to the opulence of St. Petersburg and the Winter Palace. Cue luxe gilding.

The models at the Roland show had perfectly defined dark red pouts set against flawless matte skin (Mercier's signature). Eyes were washed with soft gold.

To get the look, artists applied Mercier's Oil Free Suprême Foundation or Silk Crème Foundation to skin, and set with translucent powder. Lips were outlined in Coffee Bean and filled in with Deep Wine. Lids were swept with Gold shadow and finished with a slick of mascara.

Hair was swept into a sleek french roll and secured with a wide, shiny black headband.

Though we're only on the fifth day of New York Fashion Week, it is apparent that the popularity of oxblood will continue into next season as it has been featured at many shows this week.

Backstage Beauty Pass: Alessia Prekop

This season, I had the opportunity to provide direction for the beauty color palette for Alessia Prekop‘s Fall / Winter 2013-14 show. I worked with stylist Toyo Tsuchiya to develop a makeup look that complimented Prekop’s 1980′s silhouettes – and bright color range.

We wanted the makeup to enhance the collection – but not steal the show. Metallic shadow was a mainstay in the 80′s and has been gaining popularity in beauty recently. As a result, we decided the subtle use of a warm metallic would provide the right balance of pop and understated elegance.

The Bobbi Brown team applied shimmering bronze and gold pigments on inner eyes and lips, balanced by neutralizing nude and charcoal grey. The light-handed application of these metallic hues provided a touch of sparkle, while maintaining a central focus on the clothes.

Hair was braided into a long “horsetail”  with blunt ends. Nails made an impact in dramatic black polish, with french tips in red, green and blue

Highlights from the Elements Showcase: Winter 2013

The end of January marked the 5th edition of the Elements Showcase at Skylight West in Manhattan. Many of the usual (and gorgeous) suspects were on site, such as MCMC Fragrances, Blood Concept and Ten Over Ten was back with their mini mani's to those with enough time to take a seat . I was thrilled to see a number of clean beauty brands at the show this time around, including Juniper Ridge - which captures the outdoorsy scent of the pacific northwest in a bottle/bar of soap - as well as RMS Beauty and Rahua hair care.

A standout new comer was Thirdman. Rumored to be celebrity owned, the brand has executed a combination of delicious fragrances with stellar design. The collection captivated the attention of Linda Rodin, who proclaimed it the "best line at the show". The three delicate, light body splashes are heavenly but its the packaging that really steals the show. The fragrances are housed in a vibrant cobalt blue box, textured to feel like skin - an analogy that connects to the driving philosophy of the brand; to wear a fragrance like it's a second skin.

In general, minimalism prevailed across the board with paired down packaging, devoid of color.

Boutique florist, fragrance and candle brand Ovando injected a vibrant jolt of color throughout the space, with a spectrum of rainbow arrangements on both levels of the show.

The biggest excitement (at least for me) was the launch of my collaboration project with Ilia Beauty - Pink Kashmir lipstick. The cool pink hue is a limited edition for the Spring 2013 season. More on this to come...

Blue's the Hue for Spring Beauty

Direct from the catwalks for Spring/Summer 2013, tints and tones of the coolest hues are making a splash in fashion and beauty.

In August of 2011, I reported on the variety of blue tones starting to make waves in beauty. At that time, the newly launched Beauty Forecast from The Color Association of the United States (which I produced) highlighted green-based blues for Spring/Summer 2013.

Fast forward to present day -  WWD just released its beauty trend roundup  for the upcoming season with an article titled "Fade to Blue". The headline reads "From a hint of teal to all-over aqua, hues of blue ruled runway makeup from start to finish this season."

The blue family continues to gain momentum. As our relationship to the environment evolves - from a connection to the general idea of "green", to a more focused appreciation for water including conservation and preservation - tonal blues, teals and turquoises enter the forefront.

Like a proud mother, it's exciting to see the validation of my labor. CAUS's record for accurately forecasting trends (since 1915) continues to be right on target and I can't help but be thrilled to be apart of it!

Images: Courtesy of WWD and The Color Association of the United States

RR meets R29

Last week, Refinery29 put together a list of "7 Of The Raddest Jobs In The Beauty Game". I was honored to be included in this series--amongst some of the top players in the industry.

While the illustration may make trend forecasting look like it's all about reading a crystal ball, the interview digs deep to uncover how I got into the industry and how a forecast actually comes together.

Read it here.

Side note: Check out the article published two days prior, featuring my fave PR duo (and pals) Meredith and Madeleine from Project M+M

Illustration credit: Naomi Abel for Refinery29

Cooking with Color: Sweet Potato Lasagne

One of my favorite ways to unwind after a crazy New York City day is to get into the kitchen and cook something delicious. I love to bring my passion for color and good health together by experimenting...often without a recipe!

The video below was shot for Cooking Minute, a site that " Go[es] inside the lives and homes of busy New Yorkers while they demonstrate their favorite recipes".  A very cool concept as we often don't get to see the intimate spaces of NYC kitchens or share the act of cooking with one another.

My recipe was filmed in my tiny east village kitchen. It dissects the process of making (yet another ad hoc dish) Sweet Potato and Kale Lasagne.

​http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=a4Sr1KvPlfE

For the full recipe and step by step guide, visit the site.

Image and video credit: AaronFuks

Market Report : Holi Hues at Nars

Thankoon for Nars

It appears that New York based fashion designer Thankoon Panichgul was inspired by the playful shades recently reported, for both the runway and for his latest venture; creating a nail polish collection for cult beauty brand Nars  (to be released this Spring - May 2012). With color names like Amchoor, Kutki and Lal Mirchi, it's hard not to be instantly transported to South Asia instantly!

The High Impact Hues of Holi

colors of holi

Ever since my first trip to India--upon which I truly uncovered my love (and passion) for color--I have wanted to experience the uninhibited splashing of color that takes place at a Holi celebration. Though I've never been lucky enough to be traveling east at the time of this vibrant welcoming of spring, I discovered that Richmond Hill, Queens hosts an annual Phagwah parade (literally translated as the "festival of color" and is celebrated by the Guyanese and Trinidadian communities).

My dear friend (and former colleague at CAUS) Mary Helen and I suited up and headed out to join in the lighthearted chaos in the streets....

As one may expect, colors swirling around were highly saturated pigments that created a palette of high impact hues. These active brights are perfect for the summertime, as they look their best under brilliant sunny rays.

Yellow-based reds have become a staple in statement-making lip tones. For Spring / Summer 2012, tangerine and neon magenta become alternative bold lipstick choices. Blue continues to make waves on nails, with electric aqua as a key color for the season. Sunshine yellow appears on the hands and feet of the daring. People are willing to take chances with color in the warmer months when attitudes are more carefree and focused on looking hot in the heat.

If there is one thing to remember this season, it's that pops of bold color are commanding attention in fashion and beauty. This is a trend that cannot be ignored!

How to get the look? Try: Ilia Beauty's lip colors in Neon Angel and the summer limited edition hue Voila Priti nail varnish in Kingfisher Daisy, Etoille Violet and Baby Toes Cactus.